Picpoul (sometimes spelled “Piquepoul”) is one of the oldest grape varieties in the south of France. It is often blended into regional wines, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Picpoul on its own, especially from the Pinet area, gives exceptional results. Here, the vineyards are planted on the shores of the Étang de Thau, a saltwater lagoon that is the largest and deepest of all lagoons in the area. It truly resembles an inland sea, separated from the Mediterranean Sea by just a narrow strip of sand. The coastal breezes moderate the hot climate, and allow the grapes to retain their freshness.
Picpoul wines are unassuming, in the best possible way: juicy, lemony, often with a salty touch, like it has in this case. It’s sometimes said that Picpoul de Pinet is southern France’s answer to Muscadet, and both seem to be made for a platter of freshly shucked oysters (the Thau lagoon provides about half of France’s oyster supply!). The wine is also great for casual sipping on the patio. Serve between 8-10 ºC and drink while it’s young, between now and 2023.
The wine evokes aromas of freshly baled hay on a hot summer’s day, but there’s a brightness to it as well, with lemon and even a bit of lemon candy. Aromas of ripe pear and peach shine through, and there’s a slight saline note.
On the palate, the Picpoul is clean and juicy, with plenty of citrus, flavours of ripe pear, apple, and a clear salty minerality. Its texture is almost creamy, and, combined with a zesty acidity, it’s an overall really pleasant wine – nothing too loud or boisterous – great for summer sipping.
The mineral wine is a true delight with a dozen oysters on the half shell, but works equally well with other fresh seafood, such as steamed mussels or simple grilled fish.